You'll have seen pollarded trees along older Birmingham streets and in Victorian gardens: a trunk topped with a few stout limbs, each ending in a gnarled knuckle. Every few years, all the thin growth from those knuckles is cut off and the tree starts again. It's an old technique for keeping a large-growing tree at a manageable size, and it still works well when done on a regular cycle.
Pollarding is a commitment rather than a one-off. Once a tree has been pollarded it needs cutting again at intervals for the rest of its life. We connect you with one vetted tree surgeon in your area who can tell you whether your tree suits it and take on the cycle.
What it costs
Pollarding is priced on the same bands as crown reduction.
| Tree size | Indicative price |
|---|---|
| Small (under 5m) | £220–£300 |
| Medium (5–10m) | £320–£480 |
| Large (10–15m) | £480–£750 |
| Over 15m | Free survey |
Prices include chipping and taking the cuttings away. They're indicative: the specialist confirms a fixed price from your photos, usually the same day. The crown reduction cost guide covers pruning prices in more detail.
A tree kept on a regular cycle is usually quicker to re-pollard than one that has been left for many years, because the regrowth is thinner and there's less of it.
What affects the price
- Time since the last cut. Regrowth left for ten years or more turns into heavy branches that need roping down and more careful cuts. The job then costs more and carries more risk for the tree.
- Number of knuckles. A tree with many pollard heads spread across several limbs takes longer than one with a simple framework.
- Surroundings. Pollards beside a road or pavement, or with branches over a roof or near overhead cables, are priced after a survey.
- Several trees. A row of pollarded limes or willows along a boundary costs about 1.8 times a single tree for two or three, and about 2.5 times for four or more.
- Access and waste. Carrying everything through the house, or a tree more than 20m from the van, adds around 15%. Keeping the chippings or willow poles takes about £75 off.
Which trees suit pollarding
Species that respond well to hard cutting and push out plenty of new shoots are the usual candidates. Willow, lime, London plane, mulberry and hornbeam are traditional choices. Some other species cope less well, and the specialist will tell you if yours is one of them.
The best time to start a pollard is while the tree is young and the branches are small, so the cuts are small too. Starting on a large mature tree that has never been pollarded means cutting big limbs, and many trees respond by decaying rather than regrowing. For a mature tree that has got too big, a crown reduction is usually the better option.
What the job involves
- Checking the framework. The specialist identifies the existing pollard heads and looks for decay, splits or cavities in the old knuckles.
- Climbing or working from a platform. For taller pollards a climber goes up on ropes; a cherry-picker is sometimes used where there's hard standing.
- Cutting the regrowth. Each shoot is cut just above the knuckle, taking care not to cut into the swollen pollard head, which is where new shoots form.
- Lowering and chipping. Larger poles are lowered on ropes, then chipped. Willow poles can be kept for garden use if you want them.
- Setting the next date. The specialist will suggest when the next cut is due, typically every few years depending on species and how fast it grows.
Most pollarding is done in late winter while the tree is dormant, before the buds break. That also usually avoids the main nesting season.
Tree specialists cover Edgbaston, Harborne and Bearwood, North Birmingham and Solihull, among other areas.
What to photograph for a quote
Good photos usually mean a fixed price without a visit. More photo tips.
- The whole thing, with your house or fence in shot for scale
- The base or ground level and what’s around it: walls, sheds, beds
- The route in from the road: side gate, steps, the path through
Questions about pollarding
How often does a tree need re-pollarding?
Usually every few years. Fast-growing willows may need cutting every two or three years; slower trees such as lime can go a little longer. The aim is to cut before the new growth gets thick and heavy.
My tree hasn't been pollarded for years. Can it be restored?
Often, but it may need to be done in stages. Very heavy old regrowth can be reduced partially first, then cut back to the knuckles over the following years. The specialist will check the old pollard heads for decay before recommending a plan.
Is pollarding the same as topping a tree?
No. Pollarding cuts back to an established framework on a regular cycle, and the tree is managed for life. Topping means cutting a tree off at an arbitrary height, which usually leaves big wounds, decay and weak regrowth. A qualified tree surgeon won't recommend it.
Will a pollarded tree look bare?
Straight after cutting, yes. The tree will look like a set of stubby limbs over winter. It regrows quickly in spring, and by midsummer most pollards have a full, dense head of leaves.
Can I stop pollarding and let the tree grow out?
You can, but the new branches grow from the knuckles and are attached less strongly than natural limbs. As they get heavier they can become prone to breaking. If you stop, have the tree checked every few years.