There's more than one way to deal with a stump, and the right one depends on what you want to do with the ground afterwards. A new lawn needs something different from a house extension. A stump at the back of a wildlife border might be best left alone.
This page sets out the four main options, what each involves and when each makes sense. If you already know you want the stump ground out, go straight to stump grinding. Otherwise, describe the stump and your plans for the space, and we'll connect you with one local specialist who can recommend and price the right approach.
What it costs
| Option | Indicative price |
|---|---|
| Stump grinding, under 30cm wide | £120–£180 |
| Stump grinding, 30–60cm | £180–£280 |
| Stump grinding, over 60cm | £280–£400 |
| Full root extraction | Priced on survey |
| Grinding at the same visit as tree removal | £70 / £100 / £150 by size |
Two or three stumps together cost roughly 1.8 times one; four or more about 2.5 times. Access through the house, or more than 20m from the van, adds around 15%. The minimum charge for any job is £150.
These prices are indicative. The specialist confirms a fixed price from your photos, usually the same day, and full extraction is always priced after a free survey. The stump grinding cost guide has worked examples.
Your four options
1. Grind it out
The stump is ground away to around 15–30cm below the surface, along with the main surface roots. Deeper roots stay in the ground and rot slowly.
Suits: lawns, flower beds, new planting, paths and patios laid on a normal sub-base. It's the most common choice by some distance, because it's quick, tidy and affordable.
2. Dig out the stump and roots
The stump and as much of the root plate as possible are pulled out, usually with a mini digger, sometimes by hand for smaller stumps. It leaves a large hole that has to be backfilled with soil, and can disturb a wide area of garden.
Suits: footprints of extensions, garages and outbuildings, new driveways, and anywhere you need clean ground to dig foundations. Your builder or structural engineer will tell you what the foundations need. It's also the thorough option where a tree has died from honey fungus, as the fungus can feed on dead roots left behind.
3. Treat it and let it rot
The stump is cut low, holes are drilled into the top, and a weedkiller product labelled for use on tree stumps is applied. This kills the stump so it can't send up new shoots, and it then decays naturally over several years.
Suits: stumps of species that keep resprouting, such as sycamore, laurel or willow, in places where you don't need the ground back quickly. Use only products approved for stumps, follow the label exactly, and keep them away from ponds and plants you want to keep. Many people prefer to have it ground instead.
4. Leave it
A stump doesn't have to go. Cut low, it can sit under a hedge or at the back of a border. Cut at seat height, it can become a bench, a plant stand or a base for a bird table. Rotting wood is valuable habitat for beetles, fungi and other wildlife.
Suits: wild or informal corners where the stump isn't in the way. The trade-offs are the trip hazard in a lawn, possible regrowth from broadleaved species, and a small risk of attracting honey fungus if it's already in the area.
What affects the price
- Stump width and species. Wider stumps and dense hardwoods take longer, whichever method is used.
- Root spread. Extraction costs depend heavily on how far the roots run and how deep they go.
- Access. A grinder fits through most side gates. A mini digger needs a wider route and somewhere to put the spoil.
- Underground services. Drains, pipes and cables near the stump can rule out extraction or mean more careful digging by hand.
- Waste. Keeping the chip or soil on site takes about £75 off. Root plates are heavy and bulky to take away.
What the job involves
- Sending photos. Show the stump with something for scale, the ground around it and the route from the road. Our guide on what to photograph for a tree quote lists the shots that help.
- Choosing the method. Tell the specialist what you plan to do with the space. They'll recommend grinding, extraction or treatment accordingly.
- Checking services. They'll ask about pipes and cables and look for inspection chambers before any digging or grinding.
- Doing the work. Grinding usually takes an hour or two per stump. Extraction can take most of a day, plus backfilling.
- Making good. The hole is backfilled and levelled, ready for topsoil and turf or for your builder.
If you're clearing a whole plot with several stumps, brambles and old hedging, our guide on how to clear an overgrown garden helps you plan the order of work. Old hedge lines have their own challenges, covered in our Leylandii hedge removal guide.
Stump specialists cover Sutton Coldfield, Edgbaston and Harborne and Solihull, among other areas.
What to photograph for a quote
Good photos usually mean a fixed price without a visit. More photo tips.
- The whole thing, with your house or fence in shot for scale
- The base or ground level and what’s around it: walls, sheds, beds
- The route in from the road: side gate, steps, the path through
Questions about tree stump removal
Which option is cheapest?
Leaving the stump costs nothing, and treating it yourself costs little. Of the professional options, grinding is almost always cheaper than full extraction, because it needs a smaller machine, less labour and leaves far less to take away.
Do I need the roots removed before building an extension?
Possibly. Roots in the footprint of new foundations usually need to come out, and building near where trees have been, especially on clay soil, can affect how deep foundations need to be. Ask your builder or structural engineer before booking, so the specialist knows what standard to work to.
How long does a treated stump take to rot?
Several years, depending on the species, the size of the stump and the soil. Treatment stops regrowth but doesn't make the wood disappear quickly. If you need the space soon, grinding is the better choice.
Is it safe to leave a stump in the ground?
Usually. The main risks are tripping, regrowth from some broadleaved species and, in some gardens, honey fungus. If you've seen honey fungus in the garden, the clumps of honey-coloured toadstools at the base of trees in autumn, removing old stumps is sensible.